Turbos for 6.7 Cummins – Buyer’s Guide!

Turbochargers might seem confusing and complex but are a very simple mechanical processing product that works like a large fan. The turbocharger unit connects to the exhaust system, using the fast flow rate of the expended exhaust as it leaves the engine to drive a turbine air compressor that pushes additional air into the cylinders.

2007-2012 Dodge Ram Turbocharger

The 6.7L Cummins engine replaced the original 5.9L version midway through 2007, hence the 2007.5 formats. The 6.7L engine was designed to keep up with the competing Ford and GM models that had caught up to the 5.9L Cummins performance levels.

List of Top-Rated Turbos for 6.7 Cummins Comparison Table:

1. Fleece Performance FPE-351-0712 TurbochargerFleece Performance FPE-351-07122007.5-201214” x 14” x 14”View on Amazon
2. Cummins Turbo Technology Holset 4044890H Komatsu 6.7L QSB Cummins TurbochargerHolset 4044890H2007.5-201218” x 17.5” x 18.5”View on Amazon
3. Industrial Injection SBPS668067 Silver PhatshaftIndustrial Injection SBPS6680672007.5-201814” x 14” x 14”View on Amazon
4. Holset Stock HE351CW OEM Replacement TurboCummins Turbo Technologies 37998332007.5-201217” x 12” x 16.5”View on Amazon
5. PureTurbos TC-HE351VE-RPureTurbos TC-HE351VE-R2007.5-2012N/AView on Amazon

The Turbos for 6.7 Cummins Reviews & Buyer’s Guide:

1. Fleece Performance FPE-351-0712 Turbocharger


This is the Fleece Performance FPE-351-0712 Turbocharger for 2007.5-2012 6.7L Common Rail Cummins Only.


The Fleece Performance FPE-351-0712 is designed to lower EGT’s as well as combat sludge accumulation. This model doesn’t need an installation kit; it is installed like an OEM part. However, it will need aftermarket off-road tuning, and a free-flowing exhaust is needed.

This is a drop-in replacement turbocharger that comes with a 63mm billet compressor wheel, a high-flow turbine wheel, and supports up to 650 rwhp.


  • Drop-In Replacement
  • Lower EGT’s
  • 2.5″ “Work Stock” Legal
  • Stock Like Spooling
  • Aluminium Billet Compressor Wheel Technology
  • Max Rear Wheel HP Rating: 650HP
  • 40-45 PSI Operating Range


This is a great aftermarket replacement that sits like an OEM part but performs with aftermarket improved quality.

2. Cummins Turbo Technology Holset 4044890H Komatsu 6.7L QSB Cummins Turbocharger


The Holset 4044890H Komatsu for 6.7L Cummins is a remanufactured turbocharger for 2012 Dodge Ram 2500 / 3500 6.7L ETJ Engines.


This Holset OEM model is made of billet aluminum alloy, with a 63mm compressor wheel and comes with a mounting gasket and wastegate.

This is a drop-in replacement part.


  • Billet aluminum alloy and quality parts
  • OEM plus
  • Budget-friendly price


Very conveniently priced, and perfect OEM replacement.

3. Industrial Injection SBPS668067 Silver Phatshaft


The Industrial Injection SBPS668067 Silver Phatshaft turbocharger 3rd Generation 6.7L Cummins.


This model is a performance aftermarket turbocharger unit that comes with some impressive features. These features start with the extended tip 66mm forged milled compressor wheel, and the 360-degree thrust bearing. It also has an advanced 74mm turbine wheelset in a polished compressor housing and a 14cm exhaust housing with a modified exhaust nozzle angle. This modified exhaust angle increases the wastegate port size and gives a larger wastegate chamber.
The PhatShaft models all come with dual grooved high-performance bearings as well as adjustable boost elbows. For this model, you will need a T3 3rd Gen style exhaust manifold.


  • Increased Performance
  • Lower EGTs
  • (FMW) Forged Milled Compressor Wheel
  • 360o Thrust Bearing
  • Dual Grooved High-Performance Journal Bearings
  • Full Travel Wastegate Modification
  • 66/74/14


This is a true performance model and is an excellent upgrade for any heavy duty or performance aftermarket applications.

4. Holset Stock HE351CW OEM Replacement Turbo


Holset Stock Replacement HE351CW Turbocharger for 2007.5-2012


This is a modified stock turbocharger unit, it’s a Cummins Holset remanufactured for use and comes with a 63mm billet compressor wheel. This specific model is remanufactured from Core Turbochargers and provides improved air Flow and EGT Control than the stock models.


  • 63mm Upgrade Billet Compressor
  • Remanufactured from Core Turbochargers
  • Actuators are tested and calibrated with Holset E-Tool
  • Includes remanufactured VGT actuator
  • Will support up to 525HP


This is a full priced unit, you will pay for perfection, and in this case, you are paying for a slightly enlarged turbocharger that provides improved EGT’s with better airflow while delivering stock performance.

5. PureTurbos TC-HE351VE-R


This is the Holset HE351VE STAGE 1 with Actuator for 2007-2012 Dodge Ram Diesel 6.7L Cummins


The Pure Turbo Holset VGT turbochargers are another option for replacing your stock model with an aftermarket stage 1 upgrade.

This model comes with 63mm billet compressor wheels in a drop-in unit and has a high-flow turbine wheel, that supports 650 rwhp.

They do provide similar performance to stock parts, with their operating range set between 40 to 45 psi.

This is an aluminum billet machined housing product with a cast iron turbine housing and a billet aluminum compressor wheel. The turbine housing flange is stock and has an axial style bearing.

As this is a stage 1 model, you will get an increase of 100HP with the correct tune and fuel.


  • HE351VE Stage 1 with 63mm Billet Upgrade
  • 100+HP increase with proper fueling
  • Stock like spool
  • Improved MPG
  • Lower EGT’s
  • Improved Pulling Power and Torque!


For the price you pay, and the advantages you get, this is a great performance turbocharger to replace any stock model.

Cummins Turbocharger FAQ

With every new engine comes new problems, and it was not long after the introduction of the new 6.7L engine that problems started to arise and were bantered around the internet for all to see. There were even several “08 Dodge Ram 3500 6.7 Cummins Problems” threads in various media platforms. The first turbo related issue was the check engine light, usually caused by the P2262 diagnostic code for a clogged turbo.

The P2262 diagnostic code

The turbo used in the original 6.7L Cummins engines was the same one that was developed back in the 1980s and sued by Porsche for its 997-chassis 911 Turbo.

This model uses a variable-geometry turbo with moveable flaps inside the compressor housing. They move when enough pressure is generated to open them, and as such provides similar performance to smaller turbos at low RPM, and then opens up a larger area inside the turbo once there is enough boost, this yields bigger power numbers at a higher RPM. The advantage of this system is that it is more efficient and compact.

The problem that came from this turbo was the way Cummins integrated into it an exhaust-gas recirculation (EGR) system. This is when some of the exhaust gas is cycled back into the intake. This method lets you burn off more pollutants from the emissions before they leave the exhaust pipes and as such, helps meet the emission regulation codes. The use of EGR was mandatory for diesel engines to reach emissions compliance.

There is one issue with EGR; it recycles dirty air back into the turbocharger unit, which lets thee pollutants amass over time around the vanes and led them to clog up. This led to the system malfunction where the vanes could not open properly, leading to a loss in performance and power and the P2262 diagnostic alert. Unfortunately, by the time the light came on the damage was already done.

The Cummins Solution

It took a while and a load of warranty claims over a couple of years, but Cummins eventually redesigned the original turbo and replaced the old ones. Today, all Cummins dated between 2007 to 2012 will either have an original turbo or a factory replacement. If not, you should consider changing the turbo with an aftermarket model.
In this article, I present you with the 5 best turbo for 6.7 Cummins engines.

How to replace your turbocharger

Replacing your turbocharger is not rocket science, in fact, its quite easy to do and requires 2 hours of your time, a clean working area and the right tools. There are steps to take before starting this process, and they include unplugging the battery to assure you don’t get electrical shocks while working in the engine. Securing your motor in place, so it doesn’t move when working, and making sure you have fluid collection pans or pails under the engine to collect any oil or water you might spill along the way. (you shouldn’t have spillage from an air component, but its best to be prepared for anything.)

Here is a great how-to video from YouTube:

Twin Turbo Installation Instructions

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cables from both the passenger side and the driver’s side batteries.
  2. Unplug the air intake sensor.
  3. Remove the clamps from the intake tube, one at the turbo, and one at the airbox.
  4. Remove the hold-down nut at the front of the airbox.
  5. Remove the intake tube and airbox from the truck.
  6. Use a pair of pliers to drain coolant by twisting the coolant drain plug found on the bottom driver’s side of the radiator.
  7. Remove the passenger side wheel well by removing the screws that attach it to the fender.
  8. Loosen the two clamps on the stock exhaust downpipe, and cast elbow then removes it.
  9. Remove the oil filter and clean the freeze plug located beneath the oil filter.
  10. Use a screwdriver and a hammer to tap the top part of the freeze plug gently until it begins to roll. Then grab the freeze plug with pliers and remove it from the block.
  11. Install the O-ring onto the drain nipple and apply grease to the drain and the hole in the block.
  12. Install the drain nipple into the block by gently tapping with a hammer until the edge of the drain and the block meet.
  13. Using pliers remove the clamps from the coolant hoses that lead to the heater core.
  14. After the clamps are removed remove the hoses.
  15. Use a marker to trace the heat shield onto the back of the protective heat wrap, then cut to fit and apply to the heat shield.
  16. Cut the 3-inch side of the boot and test fit it before installing the compressor cover.
  17. Install the boot onto the compressor housing outlet first. Make sure the compressor clamp is on the large charger before installation. Carefully slide the compressor and boot it into place. Once the boot and compressor cover is in place, keep steady pressure on the compressor while you tighten the compressor clamp. Torque the compressor cover clamp to 110 in/lbs. Tighten the jam nuts on the Heim’s joint. Make sure there is at least a paper width gap between the compressor cover and the manifold to ensure they aren’t touching.
  18. Install the boot clamps. Install the bottom clamp first from the top side and slide it down. Tighten through the wheel well. Install the top clamp and tighten
  19. Remove the plug from the oil filter housing. Apply an adequate amount of thread tape to new oil feed fittings. Install small fitting into the top of the oil filter housing and tighten. Install larger fitting into the top of the large charger and tighten. Once the fittings are tightened, you can install the oil feed line from the top of the oil filter housing to the top of the large charger and tighten.
  20. Remove grid heater relay from stock location and install drop bracket using supplied hardware. You may have to twist the charge air tube, so the grid heater relay will fit with the drop bracket.
  21. Install the downpipe by passing it through the bottom of the engine bay and aligning it with the large charger and tighten the clamp.
  22. Install the supplied turbine blanket onto the large charger. Make sure there is enough room for the blanket to slide between the turbine housing on the large charger and the compressor cover.
  23. Install the air intake. Then slide the boot the end of the intake tube. Slide clamps onto the intake tube before installing intake on the truck. Now install the intake box into the truck, once in place, slide the boot onto the compressor cover and tighten clamps.
  24. Remove the sensor out of the stock intake box and install it into the sensor location with new hardware and seal. Plug the cable into the sensor. Install the window onto the airbox. Install nut onto the front hold-down of the air box.
  25. To complete the install, re-connect your exhaust to the downpipe and re-attach your battery cables.
  26. Before you re-install your wheel well, we recommend doing a test drive to make sure everything is fit correctly, and there are no leaks in the system. Once you have determined that everything is working properly, reinstall the wheel well.
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About the author

Jim Malkovich

If you have any ideas or seek cooperation in any way, contact me today and let’s see where this leads us to. You can reach me at jimmalkov@gmail.com

1 Comment

  • I have a 2013 ram 2500 6.7l. I just got it out of the dealer shop, they quoted me 4336.75 to replace the turbo actuator. They say that’s my problem. The codes and warnings my truck displayed were all dpf and def related. The 5 mph def service and actually derating. There’s has never been a programmer, or tuner on the truck since my ownership, (2015). They claimed otherwise because of black soot at my exhaust tip and the ECM had been flashed 11 times. I have no answers for that. I’ve disconnected my batteries several times for reset purposes. My question is. I’m planning on dpf, def, erg, SCR, cat and dog deletes. Once this is done do I still need to maintain the factory turbo for that year, will a12 model work. Or will an aftermarket turbo be recommended? I have no actual proof the actuator has failed. I have symptoms. But not the proper codes. It took my local dealer 8 hrs to figure what did come up with. According to them.

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